FAVOURITE PLACES X 2 / ULUBIONE MIEJSCA X 2

Podwojna dawka z Chinatown w miasteczku Malacca w Malezji gdzie wykorzystywalismy kazda minutke na slodkie nicnierobienie, szkicowanie kolejnych blogow tudziez "zanurzanie" sie w kolorowych czytadlach...

Two ultra-lovely chill-out zones in Malacca's picturesque Chinatown where we spent countless hours on sweet laziness, sippin' local beer with a bite of dragon fruits...

LIMAU LIMAU









VOYAGE TRAVELLER'S LODGE

HAPPY 50TH JULEE!!!

A little photo dedication for our dearest Jules on the splendid occasion of her anniversaire. All the very best sweetness from both of us with sunny greetings from Koh Lanta in Thailand XXX

POCZTOWKI Z / POSTCARDS FROM MALAKA

...where we started our 2 weeks travel arund the peninsular Malaysia...
...skad rozpoczelismy 2 tygodnie wojazowania po Malezji...

TIME TO GET ORGANISED...2 DAYS IN SINGAPORE

It took us less than 15 minutes from the moment we disembarked the plane to the moment we were sitting on the MRT(subway) to our guesthouse. Another 20 minutes saw us to the door of our guesthouse. The floor of the train was clean enough to eat from. The order in which passengers boarded and alighted was robotic. Everything was so clearly signposted that one would find it difficult to get lost if one tried. We arrived at our accommodation, a monument to hygiene, where we were greeted with a welcome note containing foolproof instructions on the workings of just about everything...Welcome to Singapore.



Eager to learn a little more of this seemingly utopian city, we jumped back on the MRT and headed in the direction of Chinatown. It was the eve of the Chinese New Year and an ocean of people flooded every corner of every street in a shopping frenzy that made our christmas rush look positively amateur. This must be Singapore at it's most chaotic.





Expecting more of the same the following day, we got off our train at Little India, probably in an effort to return to our comfort zone, at least we knew how India worked. We had some breakfast, dosa for me and uttapam for Przem, and braved the spotless Singaporean streets once more. We made our way towards Chinatown but instead of the throngs of people we had prepared ourselves for, we found relatively empty streets with just a sprinkling of tourists here and there. Evidently Chinese New Year is a family time and is spent mainly indoors. As a result most of Singapore's shops and many of it's restaurants close down for a few days, which doesn't leave very much to do for thrill-seeking backpackers like ourselves. We sorted out our hungry bellies with some, nearly impossible to find, vegetarian street food, then, having spent the day meandering around the deserted streets we found some much needed refreshment in the 'Backstage Bar' in Chinatown. We then had some more refreshment, followed closely by more again until we were so refreshed that we could hardly walk!



A walk down the normally very busy Orchard Road the next day proved another futile expedition as much of the street had it's large shutters down, probably just as well as we had spent about two days budget on refreshments the previous evening. Not giving up we MRTd it to the esplanades for a walk along the promenade as the sun set. The place was alive! Loads of couples, families, and tourists crowded the sea shore. The views made for a few good photos too. Singapore is at it's most beautiful as it begins to light up.





If you do decide to go shopping in Singapore, just make sure it's not Chinese New Year.

DOSIEGO CHINSKIEGO ROKU!

Wyobrazcie sobie miasto, w ktorym wszysto zapiete jest "na ostatni guzik", wszystko skrupulatnie przemyslane, ocenione i zorganizowane, miasto gdzie autobusy miejskie i metro nigdy sie nie spozniaja, gdzie wszyscy segreguja smieci, gdzie poziom bezrobocia, przestepczosci i liczba bezdomnych jest bliska zeru a za zucie gumy lub przejscie przez ulice na czerwonym swietle placi sie slone kary... Tak, tak zgadliscie tym miejscem jest wlasnie Singapur. Futurystyczna, sterylna i niemal mechanicznie zaprogramowana metropolia, w ktorej wszystko dzieje sie jak "w szwajcarskim zegarku". Nie ma tutaj miejsca na zadne niespodzianki, zagadki, wpadki czy podejrzane sytuacje a co za tym idzie nie sposob sie tutaj zgubic co akurat nie jest takim zlym aspektem Singapuru dla ludzi cierpiacych na chroniczny brak orientacji w terenie jak ja... Dla jednych taki komputerowy, krystalicznie czysty mini-raj na ziemi, dla drugich lekko nudnawe i przerazajaco perfekcyjne super nowoczesne centrum bez charakteru.



Chyba nie moglismy wyladowac w bardziej ekstremalnie roznych od Indii okolicach ale los tak chcial, ze to wlasnie w Singapurze rozpoczynamy nowy, ponad 20to tygodniowy rozdzial naszych wojazy w Azji Poludniowo-Wschodniej.





Podczas zaledwie dwoch dni spedzonych tutaj czesto uciekamy z chlodnych, otoczonych lasem wiezowcow rejonow miasta by schronic sie w badz to przytulnej dzielnicy hinduskiej (kojac przy okazji tesknote za Indiami...) badz w czerwonym od tradycyjnych noworocznych lampionow Chinatown. Jest bowiem "sylwester" Chinskiego Nowego Roku pod znakiem krowy. Fascynujace acz intensywne przezycie, ostatnie godziny starego roku miejscowa spolecznosc chinska spedza w zakupowej goraczce wlasnie na ulicach Chinatown, ktore na tych kilka godzin zamienia sie w najbardziej halasliwy i nieposkromiony targ na swiecie.











Dla odmiany w pierwsze dni Nowego Roku z kolei Singapur zamienia sie w miejska bezludna wyspe a jego mieszkancy zaszywaja sie w slodkie domowe pielesze. Wiekszosc niezliczonych domow handlowych zamyka swoje podwoje z czego tylko powinnismy sie cieszyc zwazywszy, ze Singapur tani nie jest.






Centra handlowe moze i zamkniete byly ale nie przeszkodzilo nam to w konkretnym "nadszarpnieciu" naszego podrozniczego budzetu przy konsumpcji licznych noworocznych napojow "orzezwiajacych" w sympatycznym Backstage Bar. Ponizsza fotka to profesjonalne dzielo lokalnego artysty fotografa, ktory popijajac piwko w tymze samym obiekcie postanowil z ukradka uwiecznic nas na balkonowej fotografii... Taki slodki suwenir z Chinatown.



Jak to ukochana Joanna w Kabarecie Potem w jednym ze skeczow ongis rzekla "ja widzialam zobaczylam i zostalam zmarginalizowana, veni vidi marginelli"... :-) Do Singapuru nie spieszno by mi bylo wracac, chyba ze gdzies kiedys totolotek sie przydarzy, bo to "panstwo-miasto" jest idealnym miejscem chyba tylko do niekonczacych sie zakupow dla wybranych. Sam zaszalalem i kupilem sobie najfajniejsza pare okularow slonecznych na swiecie:-)

10 BEST THINGS WE ATE IN INDIA... /10 NAJSMAKOWITSZYCH PYSZNOSCI W INDIACH...

Being veggie has never tasted so good! Here's a summary of our incredible culinary journey through the vegetarian heaven of India...
3 miesiace wojazowania po Indiach okazalo sie byc kulinarnym rajem dla wegetarian z prawdziwego zdarzenia, z kilkunastoletnim stazem, takich jak ja. Kazdy posilek, przekaska czy male conieco bylo ekscytujaca wielosmakowa przygoda. Oto pierwsza dziesatka najsmaczniejszych potraw w Indiach, ktora stworzylismy w goracych dyskusjach i debatach wraz z Lesem.



10 - Hello to the Queen
Think every dessert you've ever had all squashed into one artery-clogging bowl... Oh yeah!
Ekscentryczny misz-masz wszelkich deserow jakie mozna sobie wyobrazic w jednym slodkim dziele sztuki na Goa, dla wszystkich tych ubostwiajacych desery chocby w polowie tak jak ja.

9 - Cheese garlic naan
When you eat naan bread every day you become somewhat of an expert in the field. Go to the rooftop of the Panorama Hotel and you'll not be dissapointed mmmm mmm!
Indyjski chleb prosto z pieca w unikatowej wersji na wiejski serek i prazony czosnek w wybornej balkonowej restauracji Panorama w Udaipurze. Palce lizac!

8 - Aloo chana/Aloo gobi
Another Indian staple that just never seems to let you down. Who knew potatoes could be so interesting?! Chana is with chickpeas and gobi with cauliflower by the way.
Ziemniaczki w towarzystwie cieciorki badz kalafiora utopione w pikantnym sosie curry az mi slinka cieknie...

7 - Thali
You know those days when you just want a bit of everything? Well Thali is just that, a bit of everything on a large platter. And just so you don't get bored, each state serves a different variation. A really balanced meal and ever so tasty m'lord!
Ryz, placki ciapati i wianuszek przeroznych sosow i dipow, na poludniu egzotycznie podawany na bananowym lisciu. Taki zestaw z cyklu dla kazdego cos milego i najlepsza opcja dla tych niezdecydowanych...

6 - Palak paneer
It may not be much to look at but by golly it makes up for it with a myriad of spicy flavours, enough paneer(a type of Indian soft cheese) to near kill you, all spiked with loads of garlic to counteract the cheesy abundance and what must be a whole field of spinach, lending the whole dish a somewhat radio-active green colour.
Zawiesista, gesta potrawa na bazie szpinaku i indyjskiego sera bialego paneer, na lagodnie czy na ostro, wysmienicie, zdrowo i pozywnie.

5 - Samosas and Vadai(preferably with a side of Mango chutney)
If you're ever in Orchha and you pass by a smiley man cooking, topless, at a little roadside stall you're in for the biggest treat of your life. Fried and battered Veg and potato best eaten with your hands from banana leaf bowls, the chutney is the best we've ever had!
Jarzynowe pierozki samosy o piramidalnym ksztalcie czesto ze szczypta cynamonu oraz ziemniaczki z orzeszkami, najbardziej posmakowaly z ulicznego straganu obok naszego hoteliku w Orchhy. Na okrase catni z owocow mango. Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmniammmmmmm...

4 - Raita
The perfect antidote to a chillified mouth, natural yoghurt with added cucumber, tomato, radish, onion, potato or even pineapple, oh how very refreshing!
Nasz niezawodny dodatek do 90% kolacji w Indiach, orientalna wersja mizerii z ogorkiem, rzodkiewka, pomidorem i cebulka na bazie jogurtu, ktora nie dosc ze ukajala niejednokrotnie "przerazone" nadmiarem przypraw podniebienia to i okazala sie mistrzowskim srodkiem na bezproblemowe trawienie.

3 - Malai Kofta(from Joney's place in Agra)
No food should taste this good, seriously! A creamy, nutty, melt-in-your-mouth dream.
To wydarzenie kulinarne bardziej niz zwyczajna potrawa. Zastukajcie w wiosce Taj Ganj do Joney's Cafe i zapytajcie jak nam smakowalo. No ja prawie po raz pierwszy wiersz napisalem. Poezja!

2(and 1) - Onion uttapam
We've got a tie! We just couldn't come to a decision on our top 2. The South Indian eateries come up trumps for our faves. Przem's relationship with the uttapam was legendary in the south. A type of lentil pancake stuffed with onion and potato. Especially good for breakfast.
Moje poludniowo-indyjskie (i singapurskie i malezyjskie...) sniadanie, placek ryzowo-soczewicowy z posiekana czerwona cebulka, czasem pietruszka lub marcheweczka. Proste ale jakie niebotycznie smaczne!

1(and 2) - Masala Dosai
Did Les eat dosai til they came out his ears? Yes he did! Think huge pancake, think curried potato filling, think spicy coconut infused dips, and think shoving it all into your gob with your gooey fingers. I want to eat them every day for every meal until I die!
Cieniutki nalesnik z nadzieniem ziemniaczanym podobnie jak uttapam tez poludniowo-indyjski i tez okraszony sosami mietowym, kokosowym i chilli. Les uzalezniony po dzien dzisiejszy.

HAPPY VALENTINE'S DAY EVERYBODY!

With a very special dedication to auntie Caroline...
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FACES OF THE WORLD / TWARZE SWIATA VOL. 4

AMRITSAR OUR FAREWELL TO INDIA... FOR NOW...

AMRITSAR NASZE POZEGNANIE Z INDIAMI... NA TERAZ...

...where we have finalised our magical adventure with India admiring the sacred city of Sikhism with its breathtakingly beautiful Golden Temple...

...gdzie w swietym miejcu dla Sikhow w mistycznej atmosferze podziwialismy przepiekna Zlota Swiatynie odwiedzajac zarazem ostatnie miejsce na mapie naszych 3-miesiecznych wojazy po Indiach i Nepalu...

UDAIPUR...TIL NEXT TIME!

Udaipur City... 9am approx... bidding farewell to our new Indian friends we had made on the sleeper train, we jumped in an auto-rickshaw to the Panorama Hotel... Up to the roof for a morning feast as our room was being readied and that was where we were introduced to a view that shouldn't come so cheap, but did! Palaces, havelis, hindi temples, and hotels that look like all of the above, all sitting pretty on the lakeside, how lucky we felt as we took a birds-eye glimpse at what was to come in our short visit to Udaipur.





A short walk over a somewhat bovine ingested pedestrian bridge brought us towards the colourful labyrinth of narrow streets in the small city centre area. Walls everywhere were painted with dazzlingly bright advertisements for hotels and cafes, cows sitting lazily in front of them just for the photo opportunity. We'd only been there about an hour before we'd fallen completely in love with Udaipur, and that was before we entered a single palace!



The Bagore Haveli was our first stop. I gather that a Haveli is a small palace fit for a queen but I can't imagine that a king should have too many objections to a pad like this either. Soft furnishings in rich fabrics made you want to have a lie down in each room. The rooms were connected by shady corridors with lattice windows allowing sprinkles of sunlight hit the floor. These people sure knew how to make themselves comfortable. The Haveli also displays the biggest turban in the world but we weren't allowed to try it on.



The Jagdish Temple can be found right in the centre of Udaipur and sits atop of a busy flight of steps. The colours that Rajhastan is famed for are displayed for all to see on these steps as worshippers, vendors, and beggars rub shoulders in the daily hustle and bustle.



The City Palace looks out over the lake and is now half museum and half fancy hotel. The Museum is restored in parts to it's original grandeur with many rooms displaying some of the original furniture. Coloured glass panels in bay windows overlook the city. Przem got a little over zealous with the coloured glass shots but I must admit they did turn out rather well. The Palace also has views of the famous Lake Palace Hotel, famed for it's use in the James Bond movie 'Octopussy'. The Hotel unfortunately was far to lavish for humble backpakers such as ourselves, they wouldn't even let us in for tea :(





A visit to the Maharaja's classic and vintage car collection came with a free bottle of pop so we said why not?! Rolls Royce models, one of which had also been used in 'Octopussy', Mercedes, Cadillacs and really really old Ford models sat sparkling in their respective lots. Wow this man had alot of spare cash! The bottle of pop wasn't bad either.



On our last evening in Udaipur we sat ourselves down under a mango tree in a beautiful courtyard at the Bagore Haveli and were treated to a colourful extravaganza of traditional Indian dance performances. Dances from several Indian states were performed for a awe-struck crowd finishing off with a gravity defying performance from Rhajastan where the dancer in question carried first one large clay pot, then another on top, and another and then danced on as her trusty assistant placed nine clay pots balancing on the head of the dancing lady. This amazing dancing lady was about sixty-five years of age by the way! She kindly posed for a photograph after the show, she took the pots off her head first for safety's sake.







Our days in India were running out quickly so we had to say a sad goodbye to the magical Udaipur. Personally I could have spent at least another week just lounging about in the many many pretty cafes. Amritsar here we come....