BACKPACKERS IN THE MIST

Stepping off the bus and viewing the flat plains of Chitwan was such a dramatic change from the mountainous regions we had viewed only hours before. The landscape has an almost African feel and the humidity reminds you that you may need to put on some more deodorant.

Our home for the stay was the Chitwan Forest Resort in Sauraha, a tiny town on the edge of the wildlife reserve, and what a wonderful home it was. Greeted by the owner on arrival, we were shown to little safari style chalets surrounding a courtyard adorned with palms and hammocks. We were given a mini presentation with lots of suggestions as to how we might spend our time at Chitwan, each one sounding as enticing as the next. We settled on a few activities before rushing off to rent bikes, with flat tyres as it happened but it didn't stop us peddling our way to the Elephant Breeding Centre before sunset where we were lucky enough to catch a glimpse of brand new elephant twins, just a few days old. Two other slightly older and very playful calves crossed our path as we walked onwards and asked us if we'd mind standing in for a photo, we obliged so as not to be rude.





The excitement of ten Christmases was upon us the following morning as we arose at dawn to meet our guide for the day and set off to catch our jungle jeep. We reached the river on foot and crossed in a dug out canoe as the first rays of pink morning sun caught the rippling waters. Our carriage awaited on the other side and we hopped in without further delay and headed jungleward. As we entered the dense vegetation, our necks craned and eyes peeled, the anticipation forced us into silence. We drove for an hour and maybe another with just a few macaque monkeys to our credit. Then it happened (agus bhi mo chroi i mo bheal agam), our guide suddenly signalled to the driver to stop and reverse slowly and quietly. There lying out in the sun on the riverbank not more than a couple of metres away was a magnificent mugger crocodile, not the largest mugger ever but a ferocious looking prehistoric beast all the same which we were satisfied with. That got the ball rolling and within minutes we came across a small pack of jackals who put on a little laughing show for our benefit and, to the other side of the jeep, a couple of wild boars hiding in the undergrowth. When the guide requested that we get out of the jeep and walk for a bit as the road was impassable we were a little hesitant, particularly as we had passed a sandy area just minutes before where he explained that tigers liked to sleep during the day. We braved it anyway and reaped further rewards. Crawling some way out on a tree hanging over a marsh we caught sight of a Rhino grazing in the distance. Our heart rates soared as we passed around the binoculars for a closer look. Our luck carried on and we came upon another rhino within minutes, only much closer this time. The rare one-horned Indian rhino certainly is a sight to behold, it's thick skin looking like a coat of armour that nothing could impale. One more rhino later we arrived at the gharial crocodile breeding centre and had a quick look before returning to our starting point in time for sunset.







We approached our elephant safari the following day in a much more reserved mood. Surely we could not be lucky enough to spot rhinos once more, but yes, oh yes, within minutes of plodding through the edge of the forest were a mother and baby rhino, we nearly wet ourselves! As we were on the back of an elephant the rhinos were totally unphased by our presence and we were able to come within metres of them. It truly was amazing.





On to the local community hall then for an evening of Tharu cultural entertainment provide by the people of the surrounding Tharu villages. The highly impressive show won the full attention of the packed venue. The performers' agility and skill was mind-blowing, they even perservered through a series of powercuts where the only light on stage was provided by a torch shone by our very own Przem.



We were sad boys to be bidding farewell to Chitwan as we set off on the long road to Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha. I hope the rhinos won't miss us too much.

SERDECZNE POZDROWIENIA Z NIEPOKORNIE PIEKNEJ POKHARY

Nasz przystanek numer dwa w Nepalu to iscie pocztowkowa Pokhara. Chyba jedynie Praga, gdy podziwialem ja zima przed laty, moglaby konkurowac z tym drugim co do turystyki miejscem w Nepalu w kategorii malowniczosci. Jezioro Phewa Tal, pokryte sniegiem szczyty Himalajow, buddyjskie mantry rozbrzmiewajace z lokalnych sklepikow muzycznych, beztroska, urokliwa atmosfera i punkt obowiazkowy nie tylko dla maniakow wspinaczek gorskich, do ktorych uwaga konkurs kto zgadnie ale nie naleze:-)



Tutaj ruszamy ku przygodzie z natura. Po rozkosznie "widokowkowej" przeprawie lodka "petitka" na druga strone jeziora, wspinamy sie na szczyt jednego ze wzgorz, docierajac do sniezno-bialej pagody zadedykowanej pokojowi na swiecie z wieloma turkusowo-zlotymi posagami Buddy. Definicja spokoju, potega przyrody i pierwsza z kilku sesji foto z monumentalnymi Himalajami w tle.



Dzien drugi ambitnie postanowilismy spedzic na wysokiej klasy rowerach gorskich. Sie bedziemy scigac w gorach a co:-) Wszystko przebiegalo zgodnie z planem. Przynajmniej przez pierwsza godzine...Zaraz po tym jak trasa zaczela sie niepokojaco wznosic do gory, choralnie niemal (poza dzielnym Maciejem S.) zdecydowalismy, ze moze jednak przy naszej "znakomitej" kondycji, do naszego celu - wioski Sarangot, z jednym z najpiekniejszych punktow widokowych na Himalaje, latwiej dotrzec nam bedzie na piechote. Slono przeplacone rowery zostawilismy pod opieka sympatycznej goralskiej rodziny i w trojke kontynuowalismy wyprawe "na nogach"...
Sarangot przereklamowane nie jest. Na szczycie krystaliczna panorama na az 9 roznych szczytow gorskich. Jaki piekny ten swiat! Satysfakcja!





W Pokharze zakosztowalismy po raz pierwszy w tybetanskiej kuchni, zostalismy rozpieszczeni w najlepszej z dotychczas wybranych tanich "noclegowni" i trafilismy, zwabieni intrygujacymi dzwiekami spacerujac wieczorowa pora, na fenomenalny wystep lokalnego zespolu z dwoma rewelacyjnymi wokalistkami, w malusienkim, autentycznym, nepalskim barze, gdzie jako jedyni turysci wciagnieci zostalismy w wir tanca z usmiechnietymi kelnerkami. Takiej muzyki nie slyszalem jeszcze nigdy, prawdziwa uczta...





Czy ja juz wspominalem ze kocham Nepal?




Pozdrawiam i tym razem najserdeczniej pozdrawiam ciocie Grazynke i wujka Zbyszka za pierwsze komentarze w dziale nepalskim. Poza tym strasznie sie ciesze ze odezwala sie tez moja droga Natalya a o kultowych juz niemal komentarzach Jadziadzi nawet nie wspomne dzieki kochani! Duza buzia X

WISH YOU WERE HERE

If you've ever wondered what it would be like to jump into a postcard and walk about then head to Pokhara, possibly one of the most picturesque settings in the world. Set around Phewa Tal lake, it is surrounded by hills covered in lush vegetation with a backdrop of snowcapped Himalayan mountains all set off with azure skies sprinkled with paragliders and eagles.



The city of Pokhara itself sprawls for miles across the valley and though it is not the most eye-pleasing of cities in parts it certainly knows tourism. The area beside the lake, called Lakeside(!),is the tourist zone of the city containing souvenir shops, cafes, bars and lots more, a bit like Thamel in Kathmandu but a little more subtle. Many of these establishments have gardens rolling down on to the lake, you couldn't ask for a finer setting to tuck into some steamed mo-mos and a Gorkha beer.



The real pull of Pokhara however is what is on offer in it's surroundings. From two week treks through the magnificent Annapurna mountain range to relaxing canoe rides on the tranquil waters of Phewa Tal. Not ones for pushing ourselves to the point of much discomfort we opted for some of the less strenuous one day outings. A postcard boat ride across the postcard lake brought us to the beginning off an uphill track leading to Pokhara's World Peace Pagoda, a Buddhist Stupa with postcard views. An alternative return route brought us through some tiny, pretty hill-side villages eventually leading back to Lakeside and concluding day one's exertion.





Some high tech European imported mountain bikes opened day two's proceedings. Armed with nothing but our wits and our bicycle pumps we set off on our uphill (oh so uphill!) ride to Sarangkot, envisioning ourselves doing wheelies all the way across rocky mountain terrain. We dropped the bikes at a nice Nepali family's house after about half an hour, deciding that our high tech European imported legs would prefer to climb the rest of the way on foot. Following a few hours of quite steep climbing we finally reached the top, getting a little embarrassed along the way as we passed by old ladies carrying baskets of rocks on their heads on the same journey. We were rewarded with spectacular views of the majestic Annapurnas and valleys of rich farm land dotted with terracotta-coloured thatched cottages, it even looked down on the paragliders! A little wobbly-legged on the descent, we returned to our high tech European imported mountain bikes and free wheeled all the way back to Lakeside.





A hike on day three, brought half of us along a quiet mountain track at five in the morning (the other half opting to stay in bed) allowing us to spy on village after village waking up to start their day. Still mostly in darkness, whole communities were already rising, brushing their teeth at the water pumps, tending to animals, and starting off on their long walks to school, all neat and tidy and in uniform. As dawn gradually broke the sun shone pink, then orange on the distant snowy peaks. Tiered rice fields were sharpened to perfection by the crisp morning air. A welcome breakfast was gobbled down in the front yard of a small family home with fantastic panoramic views which I guess they're just used to. An old man residing there was more than happy to pose for a quick photo. We soldiered on for much of the day feasting our eyes on landscape that no words could possibly do justice to. What a beautiful country!





A little drained from all the activity we set off on a pub crawl at Lakeside and stumbled across a tiny Nepali bar, quite a rarity in these touristy parts. Inside a Nepali band performed and pulled us all in, mesmerising!. We were even persuaded to have a little dance. It was a real treat to participate in something non-touristy and the locals inside seemed to get a great kick out of us being there, maybe it was the high kicks a la Michael Flatley that got them!

WCINAJAC MO-MO U STOP HIMALAJOW...

Pobyt w Nepalu nadal traktuje pol serio pol "bajkowo". Wciaz chyba niedowierzam ze sobie tu jestesmy... Juz od widoku Himalajow z samolotu (choc zadne zaawansowane gorskie wyprawy nie sa w naszej agendzie) poczulismy extra dawke adrenaliny. My naprawde jestesmy w Katmandu! Jeden z tych zakatkow naszego globu, w ktorym nawet w najsmielszych z marzen nie przypuszczalem, ze sie kiedys znajde. A tu masz babo placek! ("A nie dziekuje ja juz jadlam" - ale mi brakuje moich leniwych popoludniowych sesji z kabaretem Potem na dvd ach... Pozdrawiam wszystkich "wtajemniczonych"...).



Jak tu cudownie i pieknie! Urszulka by kiedys powiedziala: "tak sie jakos marzeniowo i refleksyjnie zrobilo"... Architektonicznie, muzycznie i kulinarnie Nepal odnalazl gdzies swoj idealny, unikatowy pomost pomiedzy kulturami Indii i Chin. Miejsce, w ktorym nie sposob nie zakochac sie od pierwszego spaceru. Kolory, aromaty, wzorzyste tkaniny, najsmaczniejsze na swiecie pierozki mo-mo a i sami mieszkancy chyba najpiekniejsza nacja na swiecie!



Zabytkowe skwerki Durbar w Katmandu i pobliskim Patanie wygladaja jak z tajemniczej i w opaslych klechdach opisanej azjatyckiej basni. Poza orientalnymi pagodami trafilismy tez do rezydencji Kumari - zywej bogini, ktora zostala wybrana zaledwie kilka miesiecy temu w wieku lat 3. Bedzie sprawowac funkcje Kumari az do osiagniecia wieku dojrzalosci kiedy to wybrana zostanie jej nastepczyni. Ponoc zaszczyca ona zwiedzajacych sporadyczna wizyta na swoich balkonach ale nie mielismy przyjemnosci.



Wlasnie na skwerkach Durbar juz w pierwszy dzien trafiamy na lokalny mini-festiwal z wystepami folklorystycznymi. Nie musze chyba dodawac, ze jako "orientofil" jestem w swoim zywiole. Ciary!



Katmandu jest wymarzonym miejscem do zrelaksowanych spacerow, popijania nepalskiej kawki z duza iloscia korzennych niespodzianek i wchlaniania nepalskiej atmosfery w zwolnionym tempie oraz do bladzenia po tycich, barwnych uliczkach gdzie czas stanal w miejscu... Kram z preparowana na swiezo oranzada (w retro butelkach z zawleczka ma sie rozumiec!), kramiki i mini biznesy z zamierajacymi juz powolutku w Europie rzemioslami, tu pan zegarmistrz naprawia czyjes godziny, tam znowu pan "zlota raczka" misternie naprawia odbiornik tv typu "black & white"...





Najbardziej zapadla nam w pamiec calodniowa piesza wyprawa najpierw do Pashupatinath a stamtad do Bodhnath. Ta pierwsza jest najwazniejsza swiatynia hinduistyczna w Nepalu, zadedykowana Sziwie. Jako nie-hinduisci wstepu do jej wnetrza co prawda nie mamy, ale jej okolice sa nie do przeoczenia. Miejsce pielgrzymek wzdluz swietej rzeki Bagnati, gdzie swiadkami jestesmy po raz pierwszy obrzedow kremacji. Fascynujacy, niepokojaco inny od naszych zwyczajow ale i piekny jednoczesnie rytual. To tutaj wlasnie miala miejsce ceremonia kremacji calej rodziny krolewskiej po masakrze z 2001 roku.



Z Pashupatinath udajemy sie na orzezwiajacy spacer wzdluz autentycznych wiosek nepalskich i w towarzystwie niezliczonych i rozbawionych malpek makakow, pod atrakcje numer 1 stolicy czyli Bodhnath, jedna z najwiekszych buddyjskich stup na swiecie. Chyba od wizyty pod Taj Mahalem nie bylem az pod takim wrazeniem budynku, tym razem przy jego czarujacej prostocie, naiwnym stylu i slicznosci bezgranicznej. No popatrzcie tylko... Po stupie spacerowalismy ponad godzine z najwiekszymi usmiechami na swiecie.



Mieszkamy w Thamel, dzielnicy, ktora tak rozpieszcza turystow na kazdym kroku, ze przypuszczam jakbym cierpliwie poszperal to kto wie moze i ulubiony majonez kielecki bym znalazl w jednym ze "spozywczakow" ha ha... Pomimo notorycznych strajkow, zwariowanych kierowcow i obowiazkowych przerw w doplywie pradu (conajmniej 2 razy na dobe po dwie godziny!!!) zyje sie nam tu latwo, lekko i przyjemnie. Start naszego 3-tygodniowego pobytu w Nepalu jest wysmienity.



P.S. A w pe-esie tradycyjna juz bura i nagana dla leniuchujacych w sekcji komentarzy, oj oj chyba zabiore sie za imienne wywolywanie jak za dawnych poczciwych podstawowkowych czasow ha ha...

GHATS, GODDESSES AND GOOD TIMES

The bustle of Thamel, the grandeur of Durbar Square, the intricate latticed windows, the tiered temples, and the Kumari were just some of the things that we attempted to ingest on our short time in the fairytale-like city of Kathmandu. From tourist driven frenzy to narrow streets with miniature local shops to magical temples the city changes with every corner turned.



Our first meeting with Kathmandu came in the form of Thamel, a solely tourist dedicated area with literally hundreds of lively cafes, bars and souvenir shops all lined up for your personal pleasure. Hardly a taste of the real Nepal but an enjoyable place to hang out none the less particularly if one felt a little homesick and fancied some comfort food (veggie burgers and chips anyone?) We stayed in the very atmospheric and cheapy cheap Via Via guest house, luxury it aint but the bright red walls made us feel right at home.



Entering Durbar Square in Kathmandu really is like stepping into an oriental story book. The eyes are drawn from one magnificent pagoda style temple to the next and a huge colonial facade is thrown in for good measure. The scores of steps leading up to each temple is a popular meeting point for both tourists and the local youths, a great opportunity for some very colourful photography. We were also lucky enough to catch one of the many festivals which happen in the square.



In a small courtyard right on the square one can try to catch a glimpse of the Kumari, a female child chosen as a goddess having gone through a series of trials. The present Kumari is only three years old, she will reign as the goddess until she reaches puberty. Didn't manage to spot her though, she must have been busy colouring or something.



Probably even more impresssive is the Durbar Square in the neighbouring town of Patan. Full of many more glorious courtyards and temples.



Also paid a visit to Pashupatinath, a highly revered Hindu site and a kind of mini Varanasi with lots of cremation ghats on the bank of the river. It is also one of the most important Shiva temples in the world though you cannot enter the temple unless you are hindu, which we're not. A stroll through some very local village areas allowed us to take a look at some daily Nepali life and brought us to Bodnath, one of the many huge stupas in Kathmandu. Also visited the "Monkey Temple", another huge stupa surrounded by bazaars and lots and lots of cheeky monkeys all situated on a hill with views over the city. Welcome to Nepal wha??

BLUE POSTCARDS FROM PUSHKAR...

Niebieska oaza spokoju, hippisowska aura, ponoc ponad 100 swiatyn, kolorowy zawrot glowy, nalesniki z bananami i nutella i spacerologia stosowana...