BACKPACKERS IN THE MIST

Stepping off the bus and viewing the flat plains of Chitwan was such a dramatic change from the mountainous regions we had viewed only hours before. The landscape has an almost African feel and the humidity reminds you that you may need to put on some more deodorant.

Our home for the stay was the Chitwan Forest Resort in Sauraha, a tiny town on the edge of the wildlife reserve, and what a wonderful home it was. Greeted by the owner on arrival, we were shown to little safari style chalets surrounding a courtyard adorned with palms and hammocks. We were given a mini presentation with lots of suggestions as to how we might spend our time at Chitwan, each one sounding as enticing as the next. We settled on a few activities before rushing off to rent bikes, with flat tyres as it happened but it didn't stop us peddling our way to the Elephant Breeding Centre before sunset where we were lucky enough to catch a glimpse of brand new elephant twins, just a few days old. Two other slightly older and very playful calves crossed our path as we walked onwards and asked us if we'd mind standing in for a photo, we obliged so as not to be rude.





The excitement of ten Christmases was upon us the following morning as we arose at dawn to meet our guide for the day and set off to catch our jungle jeep. We reached the river on foot and crossed in a dug out canoe as the first rays of pink morning sun caught the rippling waters. Our carriage awaited on the other side and we hopped in without further delay and headed jungleward. As we entered the dense vegetation, our necks craned and eyes peeled, the anticipation forced us into silence. We drove for an hour and maybe another with just a few macaque monkeys to our credit. Then it happened (agus bhi mo chroi i mo bheal agam), our guide suddenly signalled to the driver to stop and reverse slowly and quietly. There lying out in the sun on the riverbank not more than a couple of metres away was a magnificent mugger crocodile, not the largest mugger ever but a ferocious looking prehistoric beast all the same which we were satisfied with. That got the ball rolling and within minutes we came across a small pack of jackals who put on a little laughing show for our benefit and, to the other side of the jeep, a couple of wild boars hiding in the undergrowth. When the guide requested that we get out of the jeep and walk for a bit as the road was impassable we were a little hesitant, particularly as we had passed a sandy area just minutes before where he explained that tigers liked to sleep during the day. We braved it anyway and reaped further rewards. Crawling some way out on a tree hanging over a marsh we caught sight of a Rhino grazing in the distance. Our heart rates soared as we passed around the binoculars for a closer look. Our luck carried on and we came upon another rhino within minutes, only much closer this time. The rare one-horned Indian rhino certainly is a sight to behold, it's thick skin looking like a coat of armour that nothing could impale. One more rhino later we arrived at the gharial crocodile breeding centre and had a quick look before returning to our starting point in time for sunset.







We approached our elephant safari the following day in a much more reserved mood. Surely we could not be lucky enough to spot rhinos once more, but yes, oh yes, within minutes of plodding through the edge of the forest were a mother and baby rhino, we nearly wet ourselves! As we were on the back of an elephant the rhinos were totally unphased by our presence and we were able to come within metres of them. It truly was amazing.





On to the local community hall then for an evening of Tharu cultural entertainment provide by the people of the surrounding Tharu villages. The highly impressive show won the full attention of the packed venue. The performers' agility and skill was mind-blowing, they even perservered through a series of powercuts where the only light on stage was provided by a torch shone by our very own Przem.



We were sad boys to be bidding farewell to Chitwan as we set off on the long road to Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha. I hope the rhinos won't miss us too much.