On the rickshaw ride from the bus drop off point to Orchha spires suddenly start to appear here and there, shooting up through thick vegetation. As you drive on, the spires become taller and more elaborate, then the road takes you to a very picturesque crossroads surrounded by enormous palaces, all accessed from small pretty streets dotted with just a few charming outdoor cafes. You are now in Orchha and you instantly wonder if you have allowed enough time in your itinerary to linger in this peaceful little haven set on the rocky banks of the Betwa river.
The palaces themselves are among the most impressive you are liable to see. Intricately latticed windows peer from balconies over-looking golden courtyards, each entered through large imposing arches. Vultures perch eerily in the surrounding turrets as you wander from one courtyard to the next. It's like a child's fantasy playground as each archway brings a new secret place into view, all lit up in glorious golden hues by the scorching Orchha sun. Orchha's palaces and temples seem to stretch out forever in the distance, a wander through some of the tracks in the surrounds will almost certainly guide you to another treasure. Trekking about in our flip flops we couldn't help being a little wary of snakes though.
The temples contain painted depictions from sacred hindi texts coloured in eye-catching blues and reds, possessing such detail that one could easily spend hours gazing at animal-headed hindi deities, peacocks, elephants and much more, some in the frenzy of battle, others banqueting at palaces, and some ladies simply baking chapatis amidst the madness.
Orchha, however, has even more to offer than palaces and temples. It has a peaceful and warm atmosphere unlike anything I have come across. Just lazing around in one of the few cafes on offer watching monkeys run on the roof tops, vultures perching up high, cows sauntering up and down, and even the odd elephant making an appearance, it feels like an activity one could pursue for days on end. We found it quite a task to leave all this calm behind and make our trip to Bhopal, the next city destination on our tour.
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